December 6, 2025, 6:13 am | Read time: 4 minutes
Leather is almost indispensable in weatherproof footwear. However, to truly keep out cold and moisture, leather shoes must be properly maintained.
In the cold season, leather shoes are nearly unbeatable: They protect against wet and cold weather while being breathable and durable. Leather is truly a versatile material. But without proper care, you can still end up with wet feet despite wearing leather shoes. And “proper” is indeed the keyword here—each type of leather requires different care products. A thorough waterproofing before the first wear benefits both suede and smooth leather.
Waterproof Leather Shoes Before First Wear
According to the German Cosmetic, Toiletry, Perfumery and Detergent Association (IKW), waterproofing not only provides additional protection against moisture and wetness but also prevents deep-seated dirt. Suitable products in spray cans, pump bottles, or liquid form are available in specialty stores or drugstores.
If the shoes get dirty despite waterproofing, so-called shoe shampoos can help. However, leather shoes should not be cleaned too often, as the material can suffer. If cleaning is necessary, waterproofing should definitely be reapplied afterward.
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The Best Approach to Cleaning Leather Shoes
To effectively clean leather shoes, follow these steps. The more time you invest, the longer you can enjoy your favorite leather shoes. Be sure to also follow the manufacturer’s care instructions, as different types of leather may have different care requirements.
Preparation
First, ensure all necessary materials are ready. These include a soft cloth or sponge, water, leather cleaner, leather care products, shoe brushes, and possibly special products for suede or nubuck leather.
Remove Surface Dirt
By tapping or brushing off coarse dirt and dust from the shoes, you can prevent it from being rubbed into the leather during cleaning.
Cleaning the Leather
For smooth leather, a leather cleaner or mild soapy water is suitable. Apply the cleaner with a slightly damp cloth or sponge and gently wipe the shoes. Be careful not to use too much water. Then wipe the shoes with a clean, dry cloth. Be cautious with suede or nubuck leather shoes: Use special suede or nubuck brushes to remove dirt and stains. The material does not tolerate moisture well.
Stain Removal
For stubborn stains, use special leather stain removers. Test the product first on an inconspicuous area and follow the instructions on the package.
Care and Waterproof Leather Shoes
- Smooth Leather Shoes: After cleaning, apply leather care products to maintain and protect the leather shoes from drying out. Distribute the product evenly with a shoe brush.
- Suede or Nubuck: Use waterproofing sprays to protect these materials from moisture.
Allow to Dry Thoroughly
Let the shoes air dry, but not in direct sunlight or near heat sources like radiators. Heat can dry out the leather.
Polishing
Shoe polish that matches the shoe color gives smooth leather shoes a shine. Use a soft cloth or brush.
Also of interest: Air Out or Wash Clothes? Tips for Proper Care
Natural Alternatives for Waterproofing Leather Shoes
In addition to well-known sprays, there are various natural methods to waterproof shoes. It’s important to test these on an inconspicuous area before use to ensure the material is not damaged.
Beeswax
Shoes should first be thoroughly cleaned and dried. Then, pure beeswax is applied to the material with a soft cloth. Use a hairdryer to gently heat the wax so it absorbs into the surface. Excess wax can then be wiped off. This method is ideal for leather and textile shoes.
Linseed Oil and Beeswax
A mixture of melted beeswax and linseed oil (in a 1:1 ratio) is also a good alternative. Apply the mixture to the shoes and let it absorb for several hours. A light polish afterward provides a nice shine. This method is particularly suitable for smooth leather shoes.
Vinegar and Linseed Oil
A combination of equal parts vinegar and linseed oil offers another option. Apply this mixture with a cloth and polish after drying. This method not only protects leather but also gives it a natural shine.
Candle Wax
For fabric or canvas shoes, simply use candle wax. Rub a white candle over the surface to cover the material evenly. Then heat the wax with a hairdryer so it absorbs into the fabric. This method protects against moisture and is easy to apply.
Tip: It’s best to regularly renew natural waterproofing methods, as they are not as long-lasting as industrial products.